About Oliver Holmgren

Author Archive | Oliver Holmgren

Cooroy to Mt Perry

Sunken Overlanders

We got an early start to the day. While Rob tied up one last work commitment Raman and I visited Eric who was thrilled to see his lovely old 86 Tenere next to Raman’s 2011 Tenere

 

Overlanding (1 of 52)

At mid day we met back at Rob’s, ready to hit the road.

Riding with Rob is both exiting and challenging. My goal for this time on the road with Rob is a little different. I want to extend my riding skills as much as possible. I will however try to take a few photographs when I am not hanging on for dear life.

Recent flood damaged rail bridge. Was this the Burnett River Rob?

 

 

Overlanding (3 of 52)

The Burnett River

 

Overlanding (4 of 52)

Overlanding (5 of 52)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Overlanding (6 of 52)

 

 

 

Overlanding (7 of 52)

 

 

 

 

Overlanding (8 of 52)

Rain beginning to fall ahead as dusk closes in. Mt Perry will be in the dark when we arrive.

 

 

 

 

 

Moisture on the visor and glasses mix with dust making it hard to see. Dusk falling quickly makes it even harder.

Riding in the dark on muddy roads in the rain….

I was glad to finally reach Mt Perry.

 

After a great evening at the bar mixing with locals, mostly miners, we hit the sack under the shelter of the veranda of the pub. Rob knows the publican well obviously.

Comments { 2 }

Three is Company

Cooroy – Day 83

Tomorrow we make a break toward Cape York. For a long while now we have been sitting around at friends places which has been fantastic, with little rides in between. We really have had a very good mid way break. It is now time to hit the road again.

Meeting Rob Turton has been a blast for two boys on an adventure such as ours. Rob marked some good tracks to follow from here to The Cape on the maps that Sleepy John got for us. Thanks Sleepy 🙂

It seems Rob approves of the two young fellas and their adventures as he will be joining us tomorrow. And so, once again, we are three.

Welcome to Sunken Miles Mr Overlander.

 

Comments { 0 }

Sunken Boys

After “Getting Rob’ed”, Eric had invited us to drop in to his restaurant in Cooroy. As well as his Dakar racing history, Eric is a top pastry chef with his own patisserie in Cooroy, Maison de Provence.

Eric and family treated us to a wonderful breakfast at Maison de Provence and gave us a tour.

 

20130728-110820.jpg

Raman’s french toast! Thanks Eric 😀

 

A recent invention of a New York friend of Eric’s is the Cro-nut, a croissant pastry in the body of a doughnut. Up for a pastry challenge, has been paralleling his friends New York trend here in Cooroy. What a treat, yum!

Thanks Eric and family

Comments { 0 }

Getting Rob’ed

Monday 22nd of July – Day 77

At 8am sharp we arrived at the Tyres for Bikes workshop to find Rob and Eric armoured up and ready to roll. Excitement and a little trepidation coursing through me, I focused myself, drew a deep breath and thought of my motto, “Ride to ride again” .

Moments later the two KTM 950’s burst into life and the race veterans disappeared down the dirt driveway before my eyes. I saw a big splash as Eric blasted his way through a puddle at the end of the drive and they were gone!

We took off after them. Sticking to the speed limit on the bitumen road, I could just see them about 1km ahead. A minute or so later we turned off the tar. Rob was waiting for us at the corner. As soon as he saw us he was off again down the dirt road. Soon we turned off the dirt road onto a small track that led into the forest. Under the canopy of the trees the ground had not dried out at all. The track was buttery with puddles everywhere. Within 100m we came to a large tree fallen across the track. I do not have many photos from the ride as I was full time keeping the bike upright so I will explain a little.

I wasn’t at all sure how I was going to get over the log. It was sloped side ways and cut in a way that I though I would very quickly end up sliding side ways and getting the bike knocked over on top of me under the cut log which was about 1m off the ground. Rob had got his bike over the log…but it was laying on its side 15m further on in a pile of mud. Rob picked the machine up and came back to help me across the log. I approached the log slowly and with an quick and solid twist of the throttle popped the requisite mono, less than a second later the hard part came, getting the back wheel over the sloping log without slipping side ways and getting knocked off the bike by the log in the air. I don’t really know exactly what happened next. Maybe Rob helped me, maybe my tyres did what was needed but I got over it.

Next Eric did the same although he got stuck on the bash plate and required significant elbow grease from Rob to free him. This was a really tricky one! Raman did the same and got stuck too. More elbow grease and we were all on the far side. Both Raman and I had thoughts wondering if we would really be able to follow these two guys on their “day ride”. I was a little relieved to see they had difficulty with the log and I felt much better when Rob indicated the log wasn’t there last time he came through and that he had not planned that little hurdle.

So, where are we. Its now about 8:05am. Rob led on, track after track, only occasionally taking us on short tar legs to get to the next track, and I mean track. Up hill and down dale we rode on experiencing slippery mud, rutted paddock tracks, wet logs, sand, sticks, creeks, rocks, cut off drains and all manner of other interesting and challenging obstacles and terrain types.

Raman and I rode like never before! We marvelled at the dexterity and balance these two veteran racers exhibited on the big bikes in some amazingly tough terrain.

Eumundi2 (10 of 15)

In the hills somewhere on one of the bigger dirt roads. The two veteran racers on their KTM 950s with Raman showing his excitement.

 

This ride was like nothing we have ever done!

A little adventure tourism. An old steam power saw mill. The big mill of the region as a matter of fact.

A little adventure tourism. An old steam power saw mill. The big mill of the region as a matter of fact.

I could tell my focus was fading, my energy noticeably less than at the beginning of the trip and what time is it, oh its only 10:40am.

I took the above picture while eating a banana, hoping a little food might help.

Eumundi2 (12 of 15) Eumundi2 (15 of 15) Eumundi2 (14 of 15) Eumundi2 (13 of 15)

 

Rob showed us around the old mill. Fascinating amount of history laying around.

The rest stop wasn’t long though.

I knew I had to regulate my self to get though this day. I was already fatigued! And no wonder, I had been riding for two hours and forty minutes already on very challenging terrain.

Taken at about 11:30am.

Looking back I marvel, 9 hours and over 400km! We got thoroughly Rob‘ed!

By the end of the day both Raman and I had improved our riding significantly although we were both totally stuffed. There were little tips scattered along the way from Rob that we had plenty of opportunities to practice.

I am proud to say I rode just the way I aimed to. I did not drop the bike once all day and yet I learnt a great deal and pushed my self time and time again in ways that had limited risk. As a matter of fact I was the only one who didn’t come off. I rode within my limits which had me fall behind at times and keep right up there at others.

I hope to be able to get the little bit of video footage I have of the day up in the next few days.

Rob Turton runs motorcycle adventure tours (Overlanders Motorcycle Tours) so for anyone wanting a really good guided tour of some amazing country in QLD, I can recommend Rob as the first person I would go to of anyone I have met in Australia! Our day was fantastic, challenging to just the right degree, Rob waited for us, gave us great advice, he knows the country like the back of his hand and he is really personable…what a day.

Thanks Rob!

Comments { 8 }

New Rubber

So, after 6,500km I am ready for a new front tyre. The Pirelli MT21 has held on well but has worn very unevenly. Still its worked well and 6,500km on that sort of tyre seems pretty good really. The rear Heidenau K60 130/80-17 still has a bit left in it but after my fractured rib at Lake Eyre on the mud I think I will just change it now to be on the safe side. Perhaps I’ll store it and use the rest for road miles on the way south. Maybe by then I’ll have satisfied the urge to travel on rough challenging tracks.

A biker we met in Coolah, NSW had recommended a place to get tyres in Noosa Heads and with a little chasing around and some local knowledge (thanks Dave Millington) we found Tyres for Bikes. The proprietor, Rob Turton, is a really interesting guy. The service at Tyres for Bikes is quite incredible really. Thanks for such great service! And, heck the tyres were a great price too.

Looks like we may have found our selves a guy to give us a little training. We have been talking about doing a riding course to improve our abilities and try to avoid getting into bad habits. The trouble is there aren’t really any motorcycle courses to speak of that cater for our needs except for a select few that are all booked out many months ahead and cost a lot.

Rob has already given me a few things to think about that challenge me in the way I come at riding. In this case mainly about balance and very slow manoeuvring.

The more I learn about Rob the more I feel very excited to have met the man.

I am particularly excited that Rob has invited us for a ride in a few days time. A friend of Rob’s wanted to have a ride of one of Rob’s bikes so they will be heading out on Monday and we are invited to “tag along”.

I have to admit I am a tiny bit concerned how we will go keeping up as both Rob and his friend Eric raced for many years. In fact Rob still races in events like Australia’s Finke Deasert Race.

Comments { 0 }

Reunited after Fraser Island

Raman has returned from Fraser Island with stories of ship wrecks, white beaches, perched lakes, rain forest and new found riding challenges including sand.

White highways

White highways

 

Perched Lakes on a sandy island

Perched Lakes on a sandy island

 

A small example of Raman's crash course in sand riding

A small example of Raman’s crash course in sand riding

The crash without the course :P No harm done!

Putting the crash into the course 😛
No harm done!

 

Challenging stuff but all is well.

Challenging stuff but all is well.

Road?

Road?

 

Lost dreams

Lost dreams

A touch of rain forest

A touch of rain forest

 

Was that only two days!

Was that only two days!

 

Raman has joined me on “The Beach” at the Millington estate. He has the remnants of the same sickness I got. We are both in high spirits but its taking a while to kick this one.

Comments { 0 }

On The Beach – Eumundi

The Beach

Day 73 – July 18th

Here I am on “The Beach” at the Millington estate, Eumundi. What a lucky fella I am. Thanks so much to the Millington’s for having me.

Eumundi2 (1 of 15)

The Beach

 

I have always been fascinated by bamboo. I had a little bamboo garden as a kid but it really doesn’t grow very fast down south. Running bamboo seems to, at the best of times, crawl. I was excited to see my little patch had a stem nearly an inch in diameter and maybe 3m tall after years of careful tending.

 

Eumundi2 (3 of 15)

7m high young shoot over 150mm diameter

Eumundi2 (5 of 15)

Bamboo is distantly related to grass. Beneath the forest of bamboo leaves I can image being an ant in the grass.

Eumundi2 (8 of 15)

Eumundi2 (2 of 15)

Eumundi2 (6 of 15)

Over ten times the diameter of anything I ever grew!

 

That is over 250mm in diameter!

That is over 250mm in diameter!

Comments { 0 }

Great Sandy NP to Eumundi

The Great Sandy National Park to the Millington Estate, Eumundi – Day 71

 

Eumundi (17 of 18)

Where you end up when it is dark, raining, you are wet and the bike seems to sink into almost every place you stop. A sandy section beside the track back south along the Cooloola Way into the pines on a little rise.

 

I had arranged to speak with Damian of Tomcat distributions (the distributor of the faulty iMC Motocom headsets) today. Damian was open to my suggestion and was happy to send a replacement headset express to me to get us by until we are able to find a solution to the fault. He is going to contact the manufacturer and see what can be done. I have offered to beta test the replacement units and I will be sending back the units that I have that failed for inspection. I am please with this positive outcome and hope I can make the headsets last a bit longer than the last ones by making some strain relief from some tubing and putting it in place over the non-existent strain relief on the helmet side of the plug.

So, in summary; I a very happy with the attitude of Damian from Tomcat distributions, we are working on a solution to the fault but I must still warn people away from the iMC Motocom HS-410 (I haven’t tested other models).

My view while negotiating with Damian of Tomcat

My view while negotiating with Damian of Tomcat. Pines are visible against the skyline.

Those keeping close geographic tabs will notice I actually headed south today a bit to get to the Millington Estate just out of Eumundi. Now that I think back I believe it would have been the end of 2003 that I was last here.

The Millington Estate is a lovely place with several families are living here.

I love bamboo and they have lots here (photographs to come).

Comments { 1 }

Kandanga to the Great Sandy National Park

Kandanga Range to the Great Sandy National Park – Day 70

I was on the bike by 7:15am. I think that would be the earliest yet. And a big sleep of 10 hours too.

Raining this morning, cloud all around. Had difficulty seeing with the visor down with all the water on it  but got rain inside the helmet if the visor was up. Everything is slippery as heck with the rain. Lots of clay sections of the track are like butter…thats been left out of the fridge. Took it very slowly. At least it isn’t too cold. I am warm and quite wet.

I did stop to take a photo but the conditions were not great to do so. The rain is bad enough but workable but then the lenses fog up too.

The track on the low grazing land after dropping down from the Kandanga Range. Plenty of creek crossings near by (luckily shallow). The lens promptly fogged a few seconds after this shot.

The track on the low grazing land after dropping down from the Kandanga Range. Plenty of creek crossings near by (luckily shallow). The lens promptly fogged a few seconds after this shot.

 

My leather gloves are wet through, my armour is saturated, my leather pants are pretty damp, my feet slosh slightly as I change gears and my helmet lining is damp from the rain coming in during the brief moments with the visor up for “technical” sections of the track. My merino thermals and woollen jumper keep me warm. Going slow also means the wind does not chill so badly. Also, the wind chills less up here than down south as a rule because it is closer to 100% humidity and hence takes less moisture from the clothing (less evaporative cooling). The down side of this is even whizzing along at 100km/h everything takes ages to dry.

I try to keep my physical excursion to a minimum too as it makes me wet from the inside (sweat). It really is a fine balance keep warm without sweating. A little bit of pushing to get out of a boggy bit of mud can saturate a t-shirt in no time with all the gear on even in the rain. Its funny taking off a water proof breathable jacket that has successfully kept the rain out for hours and yet one is still drenched on the inside. You feel kinda miffed. The gear is doing its job keeping the water out and yet you are still wet to the skin.

Despite all this moisture, my spirits are high.

 

Over the past few days I have passed lots of Hoop Pine (Araucaria cunninghamii) plantations.

Eumundi (4 of 18)

Araucaria cunninghamii plantation. Yesterday, before losing the bladder.

Eumundi (8 of 18)

juvenile Araucaria cunninghamii (foreground right) in plantation, clear felled plantation replanted in background with state forest in far background

Eumundi (7 of 18)

Bark detail (pink is under layers revealed by peeling away grey outer layers).

Eumundi (6 of 18)

Branchless trunk to approx 15m

Eumundi (5 of 18)

juvenile foliage detail

Ringing in my mind are the marketing lines from the companies selling ply wood like the stuff I used in the ceiling of my shed, “made from sustainably managed hoop pine plantations”.

 

When I saw a polycultural plantation I was surprised and intrigued. Keen to check it out, I found a house next to it and stopped. A man emerged from a small shed next the house. A vegie patch was evident on the far side of the shed. I thought to my self, here we go, this is going to be interesting.

John Alexander, originally of England, is passionate about trees and wood. He planted the forest in several stages since buying the property around 2000. Most of the plantings are about 9 years old. I have posted a gallery of my walk around the property and the subsiquent visit to the house where I met his wife, Louise Alexander.

Don’t miss out on the gallery! I haven’t posted it here because its an item on it’s own..

Alexander Forest

Alexander Forest

 

After a few hours at the Alexander property, I hit the road again. The rain had stopped for the most part but I was still wet.

I hadn’t done a check over for ticks after the big walk and I needed a pee so I pulled over. I went down a little side track and before I knew it I was bogged. Shit! 

I had put a fresh, dry, t-shirt on before having a cup of tea at John’s to replace the one that I put on fresh and dry this morning which had become saturated before getting to John’s. I only carry two t-shirts and two shirts! So, bogged I promptly saturated the second t-shirt. I did get out but heck this black stuff is buttery. Ever worse than this mornings clay. This is the low land farming “soil”. Another thing is my rear tyre a little under 50% tread depth left too.

The full motorcycle gear seems to have kept the ticks off well so far.

Back on the road, and its raining again.

On my way into the township of Kandanga I spotted a stack of citrus, apparently unwanted, on an old orchard. I stopped at the house and a man came to the door of the Old Queenslander. He was totally happy for me to pick some fruit and even gave me a bag and told me where a rake was (took me a sec to work out why I wanted a rake).

After eating some, picking enough for me (lots) and some for him, I went back to thank him. Got chatting and told him about what I am up to. He invited me in for a coffee and we talked bikes. If I recall, his name is Mark Russell. I had a great time looking over his pictures of the many bike he has owned including some really cool bikes he custom made! He looks a bit older than I think he is because he is battling cancer. I have to say though, he is a real survivor! What a guy. Thanks for your stories Mark, I still have the image of the old yellow bike with your name written on the side in my mind. I’m wishing I took a photograph of…the photograph.

A late lunch in the park at Pomona.

I got a message from Raman saying he had left for Fraser Island for a few days and I remembered Su had given me the details of the Millington’s in Eumundi so I thought I might as well see if Dave Millington was around.

I think the Millington property is the farthest north I had been prior to this trip. I can’t actually remember when it was I was up here last but I am guessing when I was still in high school. I recall making a didgeridoo from bamboo with Dave Millington back then. I still have it. Great didg, very deep sound as it is very long.

I organised to stay there tomorrow.

With Tin Can Bay in mind I headed north east. It was late already though and what happened is not really surprising. I ended up looking for a camp in the dark and it started raining again. The dirt (or should I say mud) track to Tin Can Bay, The Cooloola Way, is very rough muddy! It is actually closed *frown*

Maybe that should have been a good indicator of the condition of the track.

My tyres are in need of replacement soon but they are still working reasonably well. That said, I soon abandoned the idea of getting to Tin Can Bay as I had only made it about 5% of the way there in 15 minutes on the Cooloola Way. I took the first side track and looked for a camp. All side sloping, tussocky and very wet. Nearly got bogged again. The 16 tooth counter sprocket makes life hard too. Lots of clutch work and still stalled quite a few times.

So back the way I had come and I stopped on the side of the track back in the pine plantations (not Hoop pine this time, perhaps Pinus ponderosa). At least the ground was pretty sandy here so there wasn’t too much water laying around and it had been slashed so it was easy to put the tent up. Still it was raining and dark so I think this would have to be the least exciting camp setup of the trip.

There you go, two firsts in one day. Actually it might well be the latest too. Maybe I can blame coffee for making me over enthusiastic 😛

Hmmm, my sleeping bag is wet. Well there’s a good way to end a wet day. Get into a wet bag. Fortunately only part of the bag was wet. With my thermals, beanie and woollen jumper I kept warm until my body dried the bag out.

So like the jacket, this wasn’t rain getting in but water running off the tent fly (which I shook off before packing up) and working its way in to the sleeping bag which is tucked away inside the folded up tent. I’ll have to adjust my system to avoid this.

Comments { 4 }

Kenilworth to Kandanga Range

Kenilworth to Kandanga Range: Day 69

Headed west over the Conondale National Park. Great dirt road through some amazing forest.

Conondale Nation Park

Conondale Nation Park

 

Conondale National Park

Conondale National Park

 

Stopped for a snack out the other side only to discover my water bladder had escaped. That’ll teach me for not securing properly! So back over the Conondale Range I went looking for my precious MSR Dromidary 10L water bladder, which, unlike afore mentioned headset, is a really good bit of kit. After meeting a 4WD half way back and asking if he had seen it, to which I got a negative response, I wondered if I just needed to let it go. They guy said he had not seen it. Maybe someone had already picked it up. Maybe my assumption that it should be in the middle of the road because it fell out of the right tank pannier wasn’t right. I went on anyway but the doubt in my mind was pretty strong. I also thought it wouldn’t slide far as it was only half full (a floppy object). Then all of a sudden, there it was. Just at the edge of the track. A little dust covered but in one piece.
What a relief. Te guy had missed it. It did slide further than expected and although was black in my mind, it was closer to grey brown after hitting the road. I have learnt not to give up my search just because someone else didn’t see it and perhaps more importantly to store those things I can not afford to loose inside my panniers in a secure fashion. I am grateful for this latter lesson as I have been storing many things including my tools in spots in my forward fairing in an effort to move weight forward and low down which has worked well so far but after this experience I think I will limit the use of these spots to non-vital items like my 1L of engine oil rather than say my tools. It’s easy to loose sight of the big picture when trying to achieve a smaller goal. In this case, improving the weight balance of the bike a little and inadvertently compromising resilience and autonomy (loosing tools etc) which are at the heart of adventure riding, even more so when solo.

So, after that little lesson I chose to head back across the range and continue west. Not 200m past the spot where I discovered I was missing the bladder, I came around a bend to find an amazing sight. A hill side of dry sclerophyll forest covered in an air plants of some description( potentially Bromeliad Tilandsia Usneoides).

The "bearded hill"

The “bearded hill”

Air plant detail

Air plant detail

 

View back to Mawson from the "bearded hill"

View back to Mawson from the “bearded hill”

I am feeling even less in a hurry to be anywhere now that I am traveling alone. I guess I am in the honeymoon stage of solo adventure riding. I think this reflects more on my self than Raman. He is an amazing person to travel with. Very calm and willing to go with the flow, aware of his own needs and yet able to accommodate mine. Perhaps I can continue to feel this new level of slowness when we end up together once again. I suspect it will only be a few days or a week before we are travelling together again.

I rode quite late today and when I did finally stop it was close to dark and drizzling. The riding had become very slow and slippery. I was alone on some hill top on the Kandanga Range.

In the middle of...nowhere...somewhere on the Kandanga Range

Camp on a hilltop in the middle of…nowhere…somewhere on the Kandanga Range

I feel such freedom. I feel so alive.
A simple dinner cooked on a small camp fire and an early night.

Comments { 3 }